Asian Awakening

In the past, when I have described our travels throughout Asia, I have used the phrase, "an assault on one's senses". As I reflect on that statement, I realize this is exactly what I love about experiencing life in Asia. When your senses feel assaulted, all of the sudden you experience life in a new and exciting away. It's like your entire body is awakened to things you hadn't realized had become dormant. 

Tastes

Food is the obvious subject of awakened tastes. Since a lot of our Asian living experience was centered in Bangladesh, I had certain expectations regarding living in Cambodia. I loved Bangladeshi curry, dhal and veggies but nothing ever quite tasted like home and there was a lack of variety in our diet. We are having the exact opposite experience in Phnom Penh.

 The fruits and vegetables available at the market are outstanding. We are currently enjoying delicious mandarin oranges, bananas, amazing watermelons, passion fruit, mangoes, dragon fruit, apples and the list goes on. Fruit is not picked under ripe and is therefore fresh and delicious. 

The local food is amazing and was what we experienced when we would travel out of Bangladesh for vacation. I do not tire of huge bowls of Pho. The Cambodian curries are delicious and very different than the curry we're used to. If we are feeling Western, there are delicious and affordable cuts of meat and many people use a slow cooker here to keep the heat out of the kitchen. People have grills in their front yards and we hope to purchase one soon.

In Dhaka, the breads always tasted a bit mouldy. The flour wasn't quite right. There are amazing bakeries here - chains such as Tous les Jours and other artisan bakeries. There is no shortage of anything thus far!

Cambodia is a culture of eating out. The locals grab breakfast on their way to work, eat at the food stalls for their lunch, dinner and snacks. We have enjoyed the street food and it's about $1 for a plate of rice, pork and veggies or a bowl of steaming Pho. Sometimes we pick up a chicken on the way home and I serve it with Swiss Chalet sauce, but Mr. Chicken has a few extra body parts that aren't exactly appetizing! The constant eating out has lost some of its charm, to be quite honest. Greg likes coming home to my cooking and I like that, so I'm cooking up a storm these days. I made a roast pork with sweet potatoes, ($2 for the pork!), fettuccine carbonara and a big salad, wings and potato salad - lots of "normal" stuff. 

There are coffee shops everywhere. Name brands - like Starbucks and Gloria Jean's and there are street stalls that make amazing iced coffee. (the ice is clean) All of the coffee shops have a hip, modern industrial look to them. It's nice to simply bring your computer and enjoy a morning at the coffee shop.

All this to tell you, we are not hurting for food. It kind of feels like we are on a permanent vacation in terms of our new diets. ( we are not eating any sugar though)

Sight

Part of having your senses awakened is seeing everything with fresh eyes. When you live outside of your culture, there is something new to witness continually. Some might tire of this, but both Greg and I find it fascinating. It might be witnessing something weird on the road, like a guy sleeping on top of a load of fresh garlic or something completely sad and revolting, like the homeless man we saw defecating at the river.

There are interesting styles to see every day. Since Cambodia is a young population due to their sad history, there are many hipsters. The crowd that is hip and fashionable is easy to spot. Then, there is the older crowd that wears PJ's out in public. They aren't really PJ's but they are a printed, bright matching shirt and pants. Greg is dying for me to get a pair. Not happening. There is also the monk population, robed in bright orange with bald heads.

Traffic alone is an exercise is awakening sight and sounds! Although Phnom Penh is missing the beggars, goats, cows and rickshaws of Dhaka traffic, it is a crazy flow of traffic that is entertaining each time we are out. Currently, we are using Tuk Tuk's to get around but we will likely get a moto or a car in the near future. It's easy to transfer our licences, but I can't imagine ever figuring out the flow of traffic in this city. My friends drive motos and if they can do it, so can I!

There are new things to see and witness everyday. Nothing feels routine, boring or normal, awakening our sense of sight to new experiences.

Smells

If some of you visited here, you would likely found there to be foul smells. Again, we are experiencing Phnom Penh with Bangladesh experience and there's no place in the world that smells like Dhaka Caca. When we are out and about, there is the occasional whiff of sewage or garbage, but as a whole, it even smells good some places. Passing nurseries and gardens always provides a floral scent and passing deep fried banana stalls is enough to make one salivate. The other day, I had a strong smell of licorice as we drove down the road, which has given me a craving for string, red licorice if anyone can find some and get it to my kids for me! I don't like Twizzlers but the old fashioned shoe string licorice. :)

Sound

We live in a neighborhood, called a "borey", that is surrounded by a big, golden Temple. (called a Wat) As a result, we sometimes hear singing, chanting and preaching over the loud system as the Buddhists gather together. It was quite loud when we first arrived but that was due to an important religious festival.

At night, we hear the dogs in the neighborhood barking and just like home, car alarms go off. Traveling at night, we can hear the frogs as we pass wet places and one day a large toad greeted me at my front door! I was going to kiss it just in case it was Tia's prince waiting to meet his mother in law. 

Our neighborhood is very quiet and once school is out for the day, it comes alive. There are children from many different nations who gather to play basketball, ride their bikes, go the park, roller blade and some even come to visit me at my house. It's really fun to play with kids and make them snacks and simply send them home after!

Traffic is quite loud with the constant hum of motos. Once in a while, there is a horn beep creating a traffic symphony. You don't notice the sound when traveling in an air conditioned vehicle, which we often bum rides in from our friends the Portelas. 

Touch

Although not related to Asia specifically, our experience with touch in Asia has been related to sleeping in new beds with new linens. We knew the importance of a comfy bed from our Bangladesh days and so we brought sheets from home. However, we've been pleasantly surprised at how comfortable our comforter and pillows are that our dear friend Taara had purchased before our arrival. 

I was reminded of the importance of touch when I was in the hospital. Being so ill, I remember the young, Thai surgeon placing his hands on my arm and giving it a little squeeze to assure me that I was going to pull through. Despite cultural differences, the male emergency nurse, grabbed my hands in comfort when he saw me return to the ER with a leaky wound. Human touch is a beautiful, comforting thing and a simple hand squeeze reminded me of my humanity,my need to be touched and that comfort could come from a complete stranger. Here he is carefully removing my gorgeous diamond rings for surgery. The guy's a genius. At home, they'd probably cut my rings off.

Finally, as prayers were lifted on my behalf literally all around the world, I was never more aware of the touch of God on my life. I felt surrounded by a comforting, loving God and He drew very near to me in my scary moments. I wouldn't trade those moments of pain and fear because I felt the hand of God on my very soul. If that doesn't wake one up, I don't know what will!

Are you feeling dull and bored? Are you looking to feel excited about life again and awakened to new experiences? Well, I have three guest rooms just waiting to be filled...what are you waiting for?

Curious Dawne Goes to the Hospital

I shouldn't have been so curious! I've driven past the fancy Royal Phnom Penh hospital and wondered what it might be like inside...curiosity almost killed this ol' cat.

My story starts with the need to get my hair done. There is a Toni and Guy salon at the big mall, on the other side of the city and is run by a UK expat name Lincoln, whom most women (and probably men) swoon over. I had an appt and in order to get out of my house and gate, I need keys to open everything up. My tuk tuk had arrived and I couldn't find my keys to save my life. I eyed that big ol' gate up and down and decided I could conquer it. It must have looked like a scene out of Melissa McCarthy movie! The Khumer neighbour across the road was dying laughing and brought me a high stool to help me get over the gate. I had to hold my body at the top, and I questioned if I was damaging any innerds in doing so. My sweet neighbour had no problem communicating via hand signals that I was a little too pleasantly plump to conquer climbing 9 ft gates with guard dogs on the other side waiting for me. I felt like a Ninja warrior ready to fight for my Lincoln time!

During my appointment, where I had a pedicure whilst waiting for the hair dye to set in, I began to feel quite achy in my legs. By the time I got home, I was going to cancel our dinner guests but I plowed through making dinner before we went to an opening reception at the health club. Visiting at the Club, I simply said I couldn't walk another step and I had to go home. From there, my condition worsened until our wonderful friend David took me to the ER. 

After examination by a young Thai Dr., I had an ultrasound and a CT scan which showed an enlarged appendix. I was to have emergency surgery less than 3 weeks after arriving in Cambodia! What?? The ER laughed hysterically as I sang, "I'm in heaven", as I was pumped up with morphine. I had laparoscopic surgery and I felt immediately better the next day. Then, I died. Or, at least it felt like I had.

High fever, severe body rash, dangerously low platelet counts, crazy head aches, nausea all set in to wreak havoc on my body. The nursing staff and Dr's were in and out of my room every hour monitoring the situation and I began wondering if I could just get well enough to make a goodbye video for my precious kids. The Dr's began to suspect meningitis, so I had a lumbar puncture test. The Dr. could not find liquid and kept saying my skin was too big for his Asian needles. It was about then I started to lose hope. I screamed out in pain and he would scream, "It's not your legs is it?" I couldn't take it much longer as he kept hitting bone and nerves and so I said I'd rather die than continue. My diagnosis was never 100% confirmed. I cannot believe I lay in that kind of pain for almost a week. Despite a confirmed diagnosis of anything, I was pumped up with antibiotics both intravenously and orally.

Greg would post updates on Facebook and every single comment people posted brought me to tears. To fathom that I was being upheld in prayer all over the world was humbling. The encouragement from every message was a stepping stone to the river of healing waters. 

I know not everyone believes in God and prayer the way I do and that's okay.  I know the prayers that were spoken on my behalf on Sunday - full churches in Toronto and elsewhere lifting my name before God - and that's when I started to turn the corner. To those of you who were part of that, thank you for stepping in the gap. 

After my fever had broke, I began to see a light at the end of the tunnel. I was able to eat a few bites of food, which by the way, were outstanding. If the third world can serve up meals like they are in the hospital, what is wrong with Niagara? Seriously! Eventually, my headache disappeared and my tummy was less and less nauseous although I did puke while talking to my kids on Skype. My blood work began to steadily improve and I was sent home with a gift bag full of meds, which made me howl. My dressing was changed, follow up appointments made for next week and I was a free bird! Our bill, covered by insurance, was just over $10,000 USD. And to think I was complaining about my $2,000 USD yearly insurance fee. Not anymore!

The best part of coming home was that it felt like home. Even though we've only been here a month, it felt like my stuff, my bed, my smell, my sheets - home. I wasn't expecting such a strong sense of home. I like Phnom Penh. I like our new home. I like seeing Greg so happy. I like my new friends who not only visited but brought magazines, books, groceries, dinner, baking, lip gloss - we are where we're supposed to be.

We are planning a trip to Kampot for November's holiday. I will NOT show the least bit of curiosity in the famous prison there...

Vibes

Having received cross cultural training in the past, we recognize that we are deeply immersed in the honeymoon period of culture shock! It's that period of transition where everything about your new environment seems wonderful. Eventually those very things are supposed to become challenges through a difficult period and then comes acceptance. I personally do not remember the honeymoon period in Bangladesh, although Greg may have experienced one. It was simply difficult from the beginning, so I am hoping the honeymoon here in Phnom Penh is drawn out to make up for my lack of honeymoon in Dhaka. It feels like we're on an exotic vacation of a lifetime.

The vibe around the city is one of youth and economic emergence from a difficult, unspeakable past. Literally, one does not speak of the genocide period, although there are tours of the genocide museum and killing fields. (we are waiting for our kids to come to visit) 80% of the population is under 30 years of age! Only 3.8% of persons are over 60 years of age. Therefore, it has the energy of a youthful nation. This is evident in the artistic development around the city. There is simply a cool vibe in the air. The new cafe shops and restaurants where people gather in community are full of art, designed with an industrial modern feel, using the local materials and artisans to reflect the nation. The youth of the city is ever present simply on the streets as people move entire families on motos, the transport for common folk.

The vibe around our neighbourhood, which is a combination of barang, (expats) and middle class Cambodians, is one of family and community. We have been invited out to eat by 5 families and we've only been here two weeks. There are scores of children riding their bikes or scooters to the park to play on the equipment, families walking their dogs and groups of kids playing basketball. Without the same pressures of the Western World and the availability of good house help, people seem to have time for one another. As well as socializing as a couple, I have had many opportunities to get to know some quality women - wise, fun, women of faith. I've joined a little Friday posse that do fun things for the day and it's going to be my week's highlight. The family across the road are wonderful and I can't wait to get to know them better.

When we opened our bank account recently, it was obvious that it was run by a very young crowd. Greg and I look like old people here! The bank's employees were well dressed, partially bilingual Cambodian young adults. All of the women, whom are gorgeous, were smartly dressed in pencil skirts and blouses, some with jackets.

The general vibe we have picked up from the expat community is one of great enjoyment. There are people who are burnt out as the work is difficult in Asia. Paperwork and systems don't necessarily move the same as in the developed world, however Greg's past work experience proved copious red tape moments hopefully preparing him for what lies ahead!

Greg has been receiving managing and evaluating training (M&E) from a consultant here. The general vibe at work is a soft start rather than a fire hose one. He is excited for the challenges that lie ahead and feels his former work experience has prepared him to make a difference in the lives of exploited persons in Cambodia.

The vibe at night isn't so nice. We have been encouraged to be in our homes or at least borey by 9pm every night. The police are off the streets by 9pm and the night life begins. We were out close to that time, returning from the mall recently, and noticed a change in the vibe of the city. Simply stated, it's a vibe of sexual perversion as the KTV clubs open, where women are visibly lined up to be purchased for an evening date of entertainment (drinks,karoke) and then sex. There are web sites informing tourists and locals alike where they can purchase very attractive women for the evening. So many of these women have been forced and trafficked into this lifestyle and it was literally like a punch in the gut to see the industry in action from our tuk tuk.

The vibe regarding personal safety is a little worse than we lived in Dhaka, although I know the situation in Dhaka has changed significantly since our time there. It feels like entering Fort Knox when we arrive home, unlocking a pad locked gated door. Our community is gated with guards but it seems to me like they let everyone in! Apparently there is a danger of theft on the tuk tuks, and I have to be very careful to wear a shoulder bag with it placed in between Greg and I when we travel. It doesn't feel dangerous per se, but it's important that I don't have a false sense of security.

Amazingly we have not experienced any real tummy trouble yet! We were first introduced to some of the higher end restaurants where the average Cambodian would find it too expensive to eat. There is an eating out culture here, even for the locals. Don't feel bad about that morning Timmies run - Cambodians eat breakfast out everyday on their way to work.The other day, we went to a more local, out door noodle house and tried Cambodian red curry. It was delicious. Tonight we hope to brave the deliciously reputed street food. (Greg can't wait for the fried bananas!) He's already tried a cocoon worm and said that they just taste like nuts. I won't be sampling any bugs! The consultant Greg was meeting with suggested that Bangladesh, where I had stomach issues every week, probably prepared us for street food here. I hope he's right!

Our personal vibe in our own home is that we're going to like it here. So far, the adjustment is going well. I really like that life is more balanced here. For instance, I can simply hire a part time cleaner and can have control of my own house, whereas in Bangladesh it seemed our house helpers were in charge of my kitchen, menu. Cambodians don't seem to bring the same kind of drama that Bangladeshi house helpers brought to their employers. We are slowly making our house a home and today I bought bedding for when our children visit.

Sing it with me now...good, good, good- good vibrations!

Happy Pchum Ben

Although the timing of our move to Cambodia was not our own, it sure has worked out nicely! We arrived just as Pchum Ben was to begin, one of the many National holidays in Cambodia. It feels a little like Christmas around here.

Although the timing hasn't been great in that many of the shops are closed and we aren't able to continue getting our home ready, we've basically begun our life here with a holiday! It's a long weekend, with the Friday and Monday as statutory holidays, but many take their holiday time before and after to celebrate Pchum Ben. 

We were able to join a Club that is about 2 minutes from our house. It kind of feels being on high end vacation as soon as you pass through the doors. There is a brand new gym with copious equipment, two large swimming pools, pool loungers, tennis, squash, badminton, ping pong and a nice little Garden Cafe. For an adult, it is $400 a year to belong, which is cheaper than we used to pay for our Canadian Club membership in Bangladesh, which we didn't always have access to as non-Embassy residents.

Fittie Greg is glad to get back into his exercise routine and hopefully his friend David will join him for early morning work outs. I have started swimming lengths and I can really feel it this morning. I hope to add the elliptical machine to my routine. There are the cold and hot spas in the change rooms to look forward to after the work outs!

Our gated community, called a "borey" is surrounded by "Wat Samrong", which is a Buddhist Temple. With Pchum Ben, that has meant a lot of aural action. It's been a live concert in World Music for me! We have heard an usual combination of chanting (by the monks, I would guess) and a more popular style of music as they celebrate. It reminds me of Indian music with flavours of Oriental music within it. It is definitely a sound I have never heard and quite enjoyable! Greg's Khmer colleague described Pchum Ben as a holiday combining Thanksgiving and Halloween as they celebrate the bounty but also pray for ancestral spirits.

We braved the shopping mall during the holiday and it felt like Christmas with the stores filled with Pchum Ben sales. I wonder when the holiday became commercialized? People were flocking to the stores to take advantage of the sales. I have been struggling to see the computer screen, so I had my eyes tested and bought some glasses. Somehow, I managed to choose the most expensive pair but it still was a deal compared to home as the total price for the glasses was $118. It became clear that there exists the danger of slipping back into the old routine of having too much stuff. It's nice that everything is available but we do not need everything!

The parking lot was amazing! Motorbikes (called Motos here) were everywhere! I can't imagine having to remember where I parked!

We found a hilarious tuk tuk driver for the ride home, called Johnny! Johnny speaks unbelievably good English! I asked him why and he answered that he studies English to improve his business. His tuk tuk had a fire extingusher, head rests, kleenx,speakers, lights (although they weren't working), Wifi, cup holders, laminated business cards. a BMW sign (haha)...it was unreal! And, he started the barter process at a very fair rate!

We were invited for dinner last night and it was nice to see a new friendship beginning. This couple are kindred spirits! We had a game of Ticket to Ride with the family and had a delicious meal together. (our hosts had baked amazing homemade rolls) After their children went to bed, we enjoyed tea and conversation. I am going to LOVE living in a small community where people have time for relationships and friendships. We are also loving being with our friends who encouraged us to move here (the Portelas and their adorable brood) as well as another lovely friend from our Bangladesh days. 

This is our last day of holiday until next month when the Water Festival begins. Greg is really looking forward to getting into work and learning the ropes. He's had enough rest to last a while. But, we are planning a beach trip within Cambodia with the Portelas for the Water Festival. Cambodia has the most statutory holidays of any country in the world! 

The timing of our arrival has also worked out well with the climate. It is HOT, don't get me wrong. (it's 31 degrees today) We do work up a visible sweat simply walking down the street, but it's livable. We bought an amazing fan and Greg's comment at breakfast was that it was sweater weather! Amazingly, we slept last night without the air conditioning. Electricity is crazy expensive here which is why the need to adjust and not have the air conditioner continually running.The cool season is moving in just as we are settling in and we are going to enjoy every minute! 

We are grateful that the time difference (we are 11 hours ahead of Ontario) allows us to Skype with the kids every morning and evening. It does our hearts well to see them looking out for each other and living as a family. 

There is a time for everything and there is a season!